The most amazing thing

It was an American fish hatcher who first made me reevaluate everything. I'd pulled into his Oregon forest hatchery in a rainstorm, in search of a rumoured creek campground, and amidst the questions I was used to answering - why are you cycling around the world? did you know there's an aeroplane? - was the … Continue reading The most amazing thing

Of spooks and spokes

On the night of the super blue blood moon eclipse I walked onto the balcony of my haunted hotel, and watched clouds scuttle across its surface until I couldn't tell what was eclipse and what was shadow. I’d stopped at the Champasak Palace Hotel in Pakse, south Laos, because it was supposed to be haunted, … Continue reading Of spooks and spokes